Prokletje

Day 10

We got the 0726 bus from Zablijk to Podgorica - there are two others buses through the day. There was plenty of space, cool and generally a very comfortable journey. It took two and half hours, cost €7 plus €1 for luggage. We had a 2 hour or so wait in a very hot Podgoricia, a cafe with wifi past this time nicely. Bus times are 0825, 1327, 1713 to Guisijne. The 4hour 20 journey, cost €18 each for a return. The return can be used within a month. By writing out time and dates we wanted the bus made the ticket buying process very easy. 

The bus was full, smaller and with no air conditioning. 20 mins into the journey, it had what sounded like a tyre blow out. A passing bus picked everyone up, we did not know what town we originally were going through and where to get off. With standing room only, we were keen to get off. Being at a junction with two possible bus routes, we got off a Kolasin, to wait for hopefully, the next bus. Discovering the next bus, from the same bus company would be stopping at 1840. 

This gave us time to explore Kolasin, it had a nice centre, the most upper-class place we have been to so far. The bus station was a bit behind though, with a dusty yard and new building which is incomplete and looks like it was going to stay that way. Pete managed to communicate with them that we had already paid, so didn't get charged any extra. At  Plav we were ushered to a people carrier, where 7 passengers crammed in, for the last leg of the journey to Guisjine. 

Being 2330 when we arrived , we found a hotel - Hotel Rosi was €30 for the night, en suit and including breakfast.

Day 11

A breakfast of omelette, tomato, cheese and coffee on the hotel balcony gave us the chance to see where we were at. 

Looking out over Guisjine

Guisjine seemed like a lively little town with many bars, cafes and a few small shops. The hotel arranged for a taxi to take us up Grbaja Valley. Within 2 mins a car arrived, €10 the driver wanted. In hindsight we should have haggled, a very expensive 8km journey. 

Grbaja Valley

We has planned on staying in some eco cabins. A sign saying camping made us decide to ask about that instead. As it turned out, camping is free, the land is not owned by anyone, occasionally the National Park may charge for entry though. It looks a popular area, with several fire pits around and 4 covered seating areas. 

Fixed lines around boulder

Leaving the heavy stuff in our tents, we headed off to do a gully scramble to Kotao, a rocky amphitheatre. Not finding the path at first, lead us wandering through a steep wooded hill side. Once in the gully, it provided an easy assent, with the dramatic spire ahead. There was a boulder in the gully which could be passed using a cable and spike hold.

Gully up to Spire

The wife of the treasurer of Petzl who was climbing in the area, recommended the second restaurant from the camp area. We ate there that evening, again large potions and lots of meat, she was right, it was very good.

Day 12-13

We did two more day walks from our camp. We encountered no problems, even with the site being close to a dwelling. There were others camping there too, but only for a night at a time. A good supply of water could be found beside the track back towards the two restaurants.

The routes we did were also both in the Mountains of Montenegro book. Route 14 was a return walk up to Volusnica and then the extension on to Popadija (2057m). With the guide of the only map we had, we mistook the tallest looking peak as Popadija, but it turns out, we walked up Talijanka too. This summit was in fact in Albania. According to the guide, not a wise thing to do at all. Luckily we encountered no problems.

From Talijanka looking into Montenegro 

From Talijanka looking into Albania 

Our last day was an amazing walk up to Krosnjina vrata (2165m), a slot in the rocks forming a pass and views over the next valley. The latter sections was a steep scree slope with the final few meters being exposed scrambling.

Looking up to pass

The pass with Ropojana valley behind

Scrambling down from pass